Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Oil and Sweat Proof Makeup Techniques and Products

Today's Topic-
How on earth do I keep my makeup on in the summer or when my skin is oily?
Well... Here are the Dos and Don'ts.
Don't put antiperspirant/deoderant on your face to keep it from sweating. It clogs your follicles, and blocks your pores. This IS how it works on underarms, but the face is much more sensitive and must "breathe". Sweat helps us regulate our body temp and get rid of toxins Oil holds moisture in the skin, and keeps it supple and helps protect from wind, pollutants, etc... So proper sweat and oil function is especially important in having great skin and we don't want to impede that. If you try this you may experience deadly trapped heat in the face, acne breakouts, skin irritations, or overdrying which can be painful and aging to skin.
Don't spray your face with hair spray! Many swear by this, but if they have any skin complaints, this is an obvious contributor. Even if no irritation is revealed, it can still be clogging, drying, and otherwise unhealthy for the skin, not to mention it is extremely flammable and harmful if inhaled in large amounts.

It seems silly I know, but in regards to these misuses, note that it is technically illegal to use a product other than it's intention. This means that any horrible reaction you may experience, you legally can't sue or otherwise be compensated for damages if you weren't using the product as directed..
Have I dissuaded you? I hope so.

Here's what you can Do:
Use mattifying skincare and makeup products .
If you are not oily, but sweat more, don't overstress your skin with mattifying skin care or acne products, cleanse and moisturize more gently and focus on the mattifying makeup primers, complexion and setting products.
Also be aware that sebaceous gland activity can function as a defense mechanism of the skin and overdrying or other skin irritation as well as stress or other hormone changes can cause an abrupt increase in your oil production. For this reason, it's important to keep the skin well hydrated and a good hydration regimen helps clear and heal skin faster and often reduces excess oil production .
The recipe for healthy, glowing, hydrated skin:
Drink plenty of water, cut out or reduce your intake of caffiene, alcohol, and smoke, wear daily moisturizer and SPF and night moisturizer.
Also: Radiation (shrinks oil glands) and planes (stale cabin air) also dehydrate the skin so be extra careful to hydrate and moisturize on days when getting sun exposure, x-rays, or traveling.

To start every application:
Cleanse the face for 1-2 minutes, pat dry and apply your moisturizer/spf product, allow to absorb until the skin is no longer tacky and then apply your primer and other makeup.



Application:
The more you pile on, the more it'll slide off so build your complexion as needed. Here I will show you the path to 4 levels of coverage from lightest to fullest.
1. Sometimes a primer and a setting powder will give a nice finish alone. Add one or all of the following for a natural look: a bit of concealer/bronzer/blush/highlight.
2. If you feel your skin tone needs a bit more balancing, use a tinted moisturizer after you prime, a bit of concealer (lightly blended under eyes, around nostrils, on blemishes or red areas) and the bronzer/blush/highlighter as desired or not at all.
3. If you are covering acne or have much uneven skin tone, follow a tinted moisturizer and concealer with powder foundation, and setting spray.
OR
After priming, use a full coverage liquid foundation, setting powder and optional spray.
4. The ultimate in coverage: primer, liquid Foundation, concealer, powder foundation, setting powder, and setting spray.


Products I recommend-
Skincare:
Clay cleansers or those that contain salicylic acid will leave you grease-free.
I like Dermalogica Dermal Clay Cleanser for a gentle but oil-absorbing cleanse.
Image Salicylic Gel Cleanser for incredibly oily or acne-prone skin.
Image Skincare Matte Moisturizer SPF 30 or another moisturizer with microsponge technology.
Primers:
Urban Decay DeSlick Primer (Color corrects without green!)
Murad Skin Perfecting matte Primer
Jane Iredale Absence Primer
BareEscentuals i.d bareVitamins skin rev-ver-upper (light)
Tarte Clean Slate Poreless (light)
Complexion:
Tarte tinted moisturizers, liquid foundation, and powders are clay based and therefore asborb some oil.
Urban Decay Tinted moisturizers are amazingly non-greasy, and have a decent amount of coverage.
Jane Iredale Dream Tints suit oily skin well with a dewy finish and for more coverage their PurePressed powder will not budge once set with Balance (see below) 
Urban Decay  24/7 Concealer Pencils can be used alone over primer, blended into tinted moisturizers for more coverage, or with any other foundation, just remember to set with a powder.
Setting Products:
Balance Antioxidant Hydration Spray
Urban Decay DeSlick Setting Spray
Urban Decay Razor Sharp Ultra Definition Finishing Powder
Jane Iredale Amazing Matte Loose Powder or Brush Me Matte (light)

The ones labeled (light) are just that- not as heavy duty but good for perhaps just a shiny T-zone.

Other sweat and oil friendly products and tips:
Waterproof/water-resistant mascara: Maybelline XXL Waterproof, Urban Decay Big Fatty (essentially water-resistant)
Tinted eye primers alone for light color or under eyeshadow to preserve: Jane Iredale Eyegloss, Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
Lip and Cheek Stains Like those from Benefit, Urban Decay, Tarte, Revlon.
Lip and Eye Pencils: Urban Decay 24/7, or most firmer pencils set with powder (for liners you can use eyeshadows of the same or more intense color for a bright pop or rich depth!).
FYI: I love doing this^ with a green, navy, or black eyeliner and then an intense shimmery aqua shadow over it or black on black for the blackest black ever!

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